Day Five: Dubrovnik, Croatia


 There is nothing like sailing into port and getting the first glimpses of unexplored lands.

At noon today we docked in Dubrovnik and had a happy little tour around the town and provinces.





                                               YES PLEASE! Why isn't this on the tour?




First stop was the charming town of Cavtat 20 minutes from Dubrovnik. I would love to tell you more about this little spot but as soon as I got in the bus for the tour I fell asleep!



 I want to travel with the sailor next trip...


Some stairs...

Love these colors.



For lunch we were shuttled to some tourist spot that was actually fab. Old ladies in traditional costumes (red caps and dirndle looking get ups) fired out open faced sandwiches, dried figs (which looks so much like shrunken old bawls I could mother and I could hardly look at them without passing out in laughter) and local wine which was so dry mother about suffocated.

But this watermill!! That's what it was all about. Just sopping in ferns and moss. So divine. It belonged at Marie- Antoinette's Hamlet.





We arrived back at the walled city of Dubrovnik which is tiny and took a spin around. So sad it is just crammed full of crap tat shops and nothing good. Churches were nice though.


Even the gelato wasn't up to par...








Once we got back I went to yoga and then had dinner solo at the sushi restaurant (which was fantastic) and met mother later. When I ran back to change for dinner this horrifying Donnie Darko creature was staring at me. I had nightmares....


The show tonight was DIVAS and it was good ole fashioned DRAG. I was really impressed actually. When the gals came out to perform 'Vogue' they were wearing Elizabethan corsets, ruffs and panniers.

The boys were gooooood lookin too. Where are they on the pool deck? (Obv not the ones in the picture. We weren't allowed to take pics during the show due to trade mark!)


Afterwards mother and I hit  the piano bar which was amusing before hitting the hay. Tuesday is day at sea. Weeeeee.......

Day Four: Venice and The Ship


On our last day in Venice we packed up, had a bit of breakfast, booked our water taxi for 2:30 and headed out for some last chance ogling of sites. The flood gates of philistines had opened on the Lord’s day as every canal was jammed with gondolas piled high with tourists and every street was a venetian tango with fanny packs and locals taking their dogs on tedious walks. 



I was ecstatic to find the Venetian carnival shop opened where I had eyed a little cape I need for my Halloween costume (going masked Venetian!). I’m not sure what it really is frankly. It’s a cape that goes around your face (think a nun) and then has about two feet of lace at the bottom hitting around the waist. You secure it with the tricorn hat (Rod, we will be adding some fluff to this basic one I bought) and then sport another cape underneath it (which I already own two of). I guess it is to give the utmost in disguise to the costumed carnival goer. God knows how I will eat or drink but I’m sure it will work out!



We then headed to the Doges palace for a quick tour. I remember loving it last time and it was amazing to see it again. The rich silk damask walls, gilded everything and cararra marble fireplaces with St. Mark’s lion carved anywhere there wasn’t a fat faced putti blowing on something or waving around in excitement. The Titian's and Tintoretto's were so sublime. One Titian was hidden in a stairwell for the Doges to gaze at alone before entering the public spaces. How sacred. 



After that we grabbed some crap lunch for $60 in the square before getting back to the hotel where our boat was awaiting. The porter piled our luggage on and off we went to the the BIG BOAT. 



The Carnival Breeze is brand new to the Carnival line and is apparently part of their ‘dream’ line of higher end ships. The high end part lost all luster when I saw a two story water slide twirling around the top of this 12 story behemoth. 


Once we checked in, got scanned, prodded and ID’d we made it to our suite which really is swish and all new! No bed bugs here! We have a cosy little sitting area, two single beds and a massive bathroom with jacuzzi. Most importantly there are two grand closets so mother and I aren’t mixing up panties and drawers with bras and gym socks. Praise!


After unpacking we took a tour of the ship. Had a wee bite to eat and then found part of the 12 members of our group from mom and dad’s yacht club in Georgia by the pool in full cocktail mode. We all made a date for the port side of the ship at 6:15 to kick off the departure, drinks in hand. It was a rather fantastic voyage out of Venice passing by all the iconic areas and monuments and seeing many parts I didn’t even know existed. Carnival got points for having Pavarotti bellowing as we set sail.










Dinner was a mad dash at 6:45 and we have a great table for 12 looking over the stern of the ship for the duration of the trip. Afterwards everyone went to see the show in the theater but I went back to work, meditate and have some me time. How divine to edit my work and send emails from our little balcony as the moon shines and the waves roll. 


Mother got back at 11:30 and we were both pleasantly passed out in our little beds by midnight. Here is to 11 more days of this!

Venice/Bologna/Dozza Day Three

Today we took a trip to the country to see Victoria and her family and farm. It has been eight years since I was there last so I was eager to see the progress they have made with the farm.





Mother and I took a gorgeous trip via water taxi to the train station where we gazed at many a gorgeous palazzo.







 Then we took the bullet train to Bologna where we met Victoria and had lunch at a cosy little spot where we sampled local cheeses and Prosecco. 





Then Vic drove us to her farm (sorry I passed out on that 30 min trip Vic!) and we toured the farm and all of it’s new buildings and animals. We picked fresh cherries, petted the goats and toured the farm and caught up with Vic and Davide. 
















After a while we drove up to the medieval town of Dozza and toured the enoteca  (Always wondered what that means - wine repository!) and admired the local art before heading to the Imola train station for the trip back to Venice.



After our train broke down and we waited for an hour for the next one to Venice we made it home. Then we took the local water taxi that took an hour to San Marco so when we finally arrived we indulged in a swellegant dinner at the Londra Palace Hotel and people watched (hello hot Italians!).  Weary after a long day of traveling we turned in to get in as much as possible on Sunday, our last day in Venice. But not before a quick photo shoot with my latest purchase. As Vic would say, “SAUCY!” 


Venice Day Two


Day two in Venice and we were off like race horses to cover all we wanted to see. First stop was the Fenice Theater which burnt down about ten years ago and like the bird it was named after, the phoenix, it rose again bigger and more splendid. I most enjoyed learning about the royal box in the center of the opera house.



It didn't exist when the opera was built since the Doges was not a royal figure. Then when Napoleon took over they made the box. Then when he was defeated they built back the 12 smaller boxes, then when it was annexed to Austria (forgive my history if I’m off a bit, I’m on vacation!) they built the box back. Who’s on first?



Then we headed to the Fortuny Museum. On our way I saw a poster of Diana Vreeland and my heart started racing. I forgot there is an exhibit about her on at the museum so of course we dashed over there in total ecstasy. The show, covering two stories was divine. They curated it as she would have, grouping things in colors and themes not neccessarily historically.



 There was a Paco Rabbane green dress next to an18th century ball gown in mint green. There were four portraits of her by friends like Beaton and Berard. And to see all of this in the grand home of one of my favorite artists and designers, with walls swathed in yards of his fabrics, it couldn’t get any better unless her ghost was giving me a private tour (can you imagine?).


Fortuny’s studio sink with his paint brush strokes splattered all over the wall gave me chills of pleasure. 

                                                   

Poster/Book/Zebra shirt. Check. 

         
                                                         Fortuny Fabric swatch book



In the same museum there was a super creepy wax figure exhibit that had mother running for the hills. Apparently Venice was the most important wax casting city in the 18th century (Where are you Miss Madame Tussaud?).




Here they whipped up wax figures of royals, saints, children and deceased villains. How ghastly and exciting! 




 Peggy's House. (Tickling penis picture to come...)                  


Mother and her mount.


                                               I love the piles of gilt in Venetian stores....


                                                 Why don't you have a violet scented mint?                  
    

                                                 

                                                                     Missing Fergus.

                                                 


                                                                       Harry's Bar



                                                                              Clink!


                                            Mother and our coconut pyramid dessert at Florian



                                                              Blackamoor Realness- Hello Othello!



                                                  For all my peeps in ATL- Coke Art!


Venice Day One

It's been two years since I have been in Europe and six since Italy. I forgot how much this ancient land seeps into my soul every time I arrive. And how different is it each time? Not that I am 36, more experienced (in too many things), on a different path and longing for idyl days, a private water taxi to the Hotel Kette was tailored for my Brideshead Venice Revisited moment. 

Here we are for three glorious days before our cruise to Barcelona.
Here is a recap of day one in all of it's jet lagged glory. 




 Hi Lord Byron! " I stood in Venice, on the Bridge of Sighs/ A palace and a prison on each hand."
                                             (And he didn't mention the clap between his thighs!)



 Here is the sweet man hauling our luggage of bricks int the hotel. We already saw one man drop 50 Euro's into the canal so we are hoping our luggage doesn't have the same fate.


 Tight quarters for mother and son but it will do. Oh wait, there is no a/c. Charmant.


 View from the room. Looks lovely until the gondoliers float by screeching love songs to walruses from England during nap time.

 Lunch at Lineadombra, a NYT recommendation and well worth the 30 min stroll. Amazing food and perfect view. 


 Ahhhhhh... the Blackamoors of Venice. Hello, darlings.


Hmmm... this is looking familiar. I wondered where mine flew off to.


There she is! Back again. We remembered our last visit here together when we decided to climb to the top of the bell tower only to realize it was high noon. When the bells started mother said, "You heard - oh shit! - in 20 languages!"

Drinks at the Danieli, the best martini I've had in Europe.


Dusk on the Grand Canal with the moon saying hello.


A shop I simply wanted to curl up in and dream...


My Dreamy Delivery from DV

 I have been chained to my desk all day pounding out show reviews (it IS fun just overwhelming) when what do I see being delivered at my door but a very serious looking package. I pull it apart as Fergus looks on and what do I find but a note simply stating:
C-
With Love,
DV

Gasp! Diana Vreeland is back from the dead. She must have been summoned at Thom Browne's funereal show this week. The box is from Connor New York so I know those sneaky devils are up to this (as are you Paul Lerner!) and am thrilled to see I finally have the stationery to complete my red room, or "The D.V. Devotional Den" as it has been called.



Connor is always incredible and this set of note cards doesn't disappoint from the weight of the paper to the depth of the engraving and of course the perfect Imperial Chinese lacquer red.

Thank you boys for this delicious gift, much needed today, but don't look for a thank you note, I'm saving these suckers.

Second Annual Caftan Cavorting at Art Basel

I know it has been FOREVER since I have posted but now that I am EIC of LookBooks I am posting there as well as Tweeting, Tumblring, Instagraming, Facebooking and clucking like a chicken. Anything to get the word out about our awesome content!

But for Art Basel Miami this year I decided to keep the caftan tradition going and I had two new ones made in Harlem and brought my Dishdasha I bought in Dubai. They were a hit! And so were the one piece bathing suits I wore under them.

Day One: My classic Moroccan caftan. Keep it minimal at the start. Don't scare the people.
 Day Two: Scare the people. One Russian woman at the pool yelled, "Oh ma gawd I zought you were going to shoot me!" How sad that a white robe makes people think of terrorism. Read a book people!
 Day Three: This John Bartlett number is always a crowd please. The cut is perfect and the camo print of his beloved Tiny Tim is epic. (Note my friend has a dress with a cat print. Cats and Dawgs!)
 Day Four: Serve them Harlem realness. Nobody was really prepared for this one. I have dreamed of having a caftan in this fabric since Obama was sworn in. I saw it all over Harlem but it dissappeared before I could buy some. Luckily I found one spot in Harlem that still had some. Yes I did!

 Day Five: Tribal Mask meets Liz Taylor. This is another print I found in Harlem. I really should have washed it before wearing it as the dye was so intense that when I sweated I had blue streaks running down my arms and legs. No matter! As you can tell, Morgan from Saturdays is a big fan.
And that's it for now! I can't wait to swan around New York in these this summer.
Feel free to send me pics of your favorite caftans. I need inspiration for next year!


Daphne Guinness Profile- O Magazine

Here is the piece I wrote for The U.K's O Magazine, the bi-annual fashion publication from The Observer newspaper in London. It came out just in time for Fashion Week. Needless to say it is always a thrill to interview Daphne. She is funny, quick witted and terribly smart.

Since I can't download PDF's on this site I had to save as jpeg and I don't think you can actually read it. But email me if you want a larger image or pick one up in Londontown. 







Fergus unleashed on Sullivan's Island

 We are down here in Charleston for Claire and Marco's baby shower. More on that soon! But this mawnin' Claire and I took the dawgs to Sullivan's Island for a good run. They can be off leash as long as they have proper tags from the city so I borrowed Digs' blue collar and wrapped it around Fergus' little leather collar.

Boy did we have fun! And the best part was that (for the most part) Fergus came to me when I called. Treats didn't hurt either. All dogs were good and bath time afterwards at Claire's wasn't too hard.

That was at 9:30am and at 6:14pm they are still lazing about the house. See more below. Enjoy.

 Dizzy waiting for a treat

 Fergus' first glance of the ocean!

 Tiddling
 New friend
 Sand castle!
 Chasing new friend
 Clearly friend is winning
 To the waves!
 Upon reflection...
 Getting used to it
 Eeeek!
 Big boy
 My favorite landscape...
 Preggers Claire
 Check out the graphic art in the sand-
 Treat time
 Jelly fish. Wouldn't that make a fab charger?
Fort Sumter where the first shots of the Civil War were fired.


Ye Olde Broom

Now that our economy is in the dumps (again!) and China could take over any day, I have really been trying to buy all American. When my broom was shot I refused to go to Duane Reade for another crap plastic one. So I googled 'hand made brooms' and found Little John.

I am seriously obsessed with this site. I want one of each. Check out that marriage broom!
I ordered a standard broom and it arrived this week. It really is a work of art. I love the wood handle, the braiding on top, the twine loop for hanging (although Little John, I think leather would look nicer, but maybe you are vegan).

Then I gave it a whirl this morning. WOW! I'm going to stoner out and say it made the best sound, it felt great and damn did it do the trick. Especially after all that Irene debris.

Check out the site here and think of him when looking for house warming and general gift giving. Perfect for country homes!

Thanks Little John! Keep up the good wizardry work.



Happy Birthday Biba

I just had this photo framed in memory of my grandmother, 'Biba', who would have turned 89 on August 21st.

She was my best friend who made me feel completely safe, happy and secure in a world where I had no idea who I was. She got married to my grandfather when she was 18 and he was heading off to war. She got married at her mothers home in a surprise wedding. Everyone thought she was hosting a cocktail party and out she came. 

I took it to my favorite framer in the world, Jack and he said "I'm going to go crazy but just trust me." It came back with a brown suede mat with a dusty pink boarder and a silver frame. It worked. I can hear her now looking at it, "Mmmmmmmmmmmm! How I remember that day like it was just yesterday," in her sweet southern drawl. 

I miss her every day.

Fergus' First Time on the Beach!

There aren't many places in the Hamptons that dogs are allowed on the beach but Mark and Mary have a special spot where dogs can come play.

Fergus was excited and terrified of the ocean and the sound of splashing waves.
But in true Terrier form, he adored the sand for digging.

Getting him clean was a bit of an event but he had a ball and we will definitely make is a summer ritual.

PS- I had to add the Lilly Pulitzer Animal Crackers in the mix. Mary said she bought them at a ghetto gas station en route to the country and the cookies were so stale she had to throw them away!






Tie Dying in South Hampton

I have been away from my blog for some time since I got a new job! I am now Editor-in-Chief at LookBooks.com

Now that things are a bit more under control I am back to some posts!

Here is our Sunday afternoon creative time. Mark bought a tie dye kit and some very big granny panties for us to dye.

I have actually been wearing them and getting quite a shock when I unzip and see red and purple!





A Full On Fourth at Fay and James'



This 4th was spent at James and Fay's fun summer spot in East Hampton. How odd not to be out there with Rod and Philip at Jamies! But it's always nice to see the Hamptons through others eyes. It was a relatively mellow weekend (well, not for James and Javas!) but the rest of us just chilled, giggled and did a whole heap of eating. Thanks F&J for a fun filled weekend. Fergus is still wiped out!

 Our hosts in repose

 Can you spot Fergus?

 Javas doing his 'Octopus Dance' as Soumanjoy calls it.

 The beach or a Ralph Lauren Polo ad?

 Da Boys being boys. I wish we got a pic of princess unicorn who visited us in his neon green speedo but we were too awe struck to move.

 Yes my child!

 My morning buddy

 SAUCY salad!

 Gazpacho prep


"I SWEAR mine are bigger than this!"

 SadTrombone.com- kept us in stitches all weekend
 Boys behaving badly

 Dawg Walkin'

 ART!

 Dream Home.

 Dream Boat.

 Someone sketching.

 Fay kept saying, "Bloody hell get a picture of that! James cooking!"

 Gatttthpacho!


And here we go....


Your child will be so proud when this floats up during his High School years....


Fay is thinking... HOAX... that was the word of the night for Scrabble.

 4th of July Parade in South Hampton!

 Bea in her new tie dyed shirt she made.

 Fergus hears the bagpipes of his homeland!

 Is that Rose Kennedy?

 Look to the far left of the frame...

Kaboom!
Perfect weekend.
xo

Fergus' First Hair Cut!

My little boy is getting all grown up!
Today I took Fergus to Posh Paws in Harlem for his first Scotty hair cut.

They said he was a star client, whimpering a bit in the beginning then once he realized how much cooler he will feel in this summer heat he laid back and let the buzzing begin.
                                                                      BEFORE

I can't believe how different he looks. I thought all that mass was hair but it was actually his little stocky body filling out.
                                                                           BEFORE

Soumanjoy wasn't too thrilled with the prospect of a cut since his curls are so cute (FDR was never a fan for Fala to be cut either) but I think now that it's done his curls will grow in as handsome waves. He will be our own little Swiffer!
                                                                     FINISHED!

Once home Ferris was eager to see the new look. He seems to approve.


And can't you tell someone is a happy little lad basking in the sun with half his coat and a heap more pizazz?

My 35th Birthday Bollywood Blowout

This post is way overdue but life has been quite busy since I turned 35! I can't dare post all the pictures here but here are some highlights. I decided to have an Indian themed bash about six months before and spent hours in Butala Emporium in Little India buying decorations. incense, garlands and platters. Soumanjoy and I even made the trip to Jackson Heights to buy a sherwani for me and a sari for mom. Little did I know he already had his sister on a hunt for one in India which he gave to me on my actual birthday. 

Molly from Sips and Bites did a stellar job on Indian themed food and Soumanjoy made a killer chicken tikka. My poor bartender had no idea what hit him with 35 people came in at the same time and the crowd swelled to around 75.
We spilled, swilled, twirled and laughed till 2am. One of the earliest party endings I've ever had! Usually people are still coming in at that hour. It was quite a bash. Next year is tee shirts and paper plates!

                                                           Mother in her Maharaja Magic
                                                        Samosas from Sips and Bites
                                Babe and me in our Sherwani's. Rod added the plumes to my turban.
                 Beatrice in her belly dancing outfit I bought her in Dubai. She was Fergus' favorite toy!
                                    Mama Mary in her sari I bought her in India in 2003! Its debut.
         Sandy from Henna Studio spent two hours beautifying everyone in henna. The perfect addition.
                                          Fay's not saying what she is hiding under that sari!
                                     Asha, one of the people the party couldn't happen without.
                                     Can you tell these girls have spent some time in India?
                                             Patrick! He's been planning this outfit for months.
                                       Hanuk never does costume, but he's character enough.
                                                                     I dream of Juanjo!
                                                                Party gets poppin!
                                                              Ms. Blume ala Man Ray
                                                        Soumanjoy and Poppy King!
                                          The Crew and my gift, an Hermes ashtray of a Scotty.
                                                                          Harpers Here!
                                                        Ben! One of Mama's favorites.
                                                             The North Fork Crew.
                                     Anna Banana! Here new store is killing it in the LES
                                                               Here comes trouble...
                                                        Horacio in the Urban Turban
                                                   Chris Olberding does Leopard right!
                                                            Felix and his loose lips
                                                                   Wigs out, games begin.
                                                          BOFFO boy Faris and friend
                                                   Olivia in her favorite spot, Fergus' crate....
Last but not least, David Usbourne goes Colonial. Viceroy? Attaboy.

Marie Antoinette's Turkish Treasures at The Frick

On a balmy Tuesday afternoon, Lesley Blume and I swaggered over to The Frick to have a private tour of the newest exhibit, Turkish Taste at the Court of Marie-Antoinette.
Exoticism and my favorite Queen all in one exhibit? S’il vous plait!

We met our favorite flapper Heidi Rosenau in the vestibule of the museum (wearing a very nautical 1930’s look) and she escorted us to the tiny room where the treasures are being shown. At first I was disappointed that it wasn’t a full floor of objects but once we began discussing each of the six objects my head was already swimming in a Turkish bath of beauty.

Heidi gave us the rundown of each piece and later, my new neighbor Charlotte Vignon, who is Associate Curator of Decorative Arts at The Frick provided much of the background of the curious and short-lived trend.

France had a love affair with anything exotic and when in 1721 Mehmed Efendi visited Louis XV the royal court was sent into an Arab frenzy. But it was when Marie Antoinette became Queen in 1774 that the trend really took off.

Boudoirs Turcs became all the rage with royals and were always small, personal rooms for close friends (opposed to state rooms), which were mirrored and full of the highest quality furniture and objects. Although the Queen had one created at Versailles and Fontainebleau, the one at the latter is the only one still in existence. It is not open to the public because of it’s size and location but Charlotte being who she is got access and showed us pictures of this amazing little chamber which I hope one day will be open to the plebes like me!

Sadly, the Turkish trend fizzled when Marie Antoinette and the Ancien Regime were carted off to the guillotine. But lucky for us there are a few pieces that survived that can transport us back to those decadent, debaucherous days.

Below are images from the show and my notes on each. Hop on your magic carpet and check out this magical little nook of delicious, dreamy works of art. On view till September 11th.

Pair of Firedogs with a Seated Dromedary
from Marie-Antoinette’s Turkish boudoir at the Château de Fontainebleau, 1777


These dandified dromedaries were all the rage in the Queens court.
Crafted by good ole Pierre Gouthière, the greatest bronze-maker, chaser, and gilder of his time I can only imagine a little fire roaring behind them as M.A. giggled over court gossip. I wasn’t really aware there are camels in Turkey but on further investigation they do indeed reside there and they are known for their wrestling!



Attributed to Jean-Siméon Rousseau de la Rottière (1747–1820) and Jules-Hugues Rousseau (1743–1806)
Pair of Panels from the comte d’Artois’s Turkish Room at Versailles, 1781


In truth I can’t give M.A. all the credit for the Turkish delights. The comte d’Artois, Louis the XVI younger brother actually started the trend around the same time and created his own room in Versailles. These panels come from that room which he used as a library. There are six in existence and the rest are in Paris. The cherubs in turbans give me the major creeps but Lesley and I both gasped at the beauty and the sensuality of the interlocking mermaids on the bottom of the panels.

Pair of Small Console Tables, c. 1780 Gilded and painted beech and walnut with marble tabletop


Although the early history of these tables is unknown their exceptional quality suggest they were once in royal hands. These are the inspiration for the exhibit since they are in the Frick collection.
From mermaids to Blackamoor mermen, Lesley and I nearly had to go outside for some fresh air we got so excited. The crossed crescents at the tops of the tables also evoke the Turkish trend.
Charlotte explained that the Blackamoors and central garlands are all carved out of one solid piece of wood. Impressive. The tables are displayed one at eye level and one, as it would stand on the floor. Charlotte told us they did that so we could see the detail of the tables up close but also when you look down at the lower table one of the mermen is staring directly back at you. We went gaga over his silver earrings and his turban, which was originally gilded in platinum.

To make these tables even more divine, Mr. Frick bought them on suggestion from the legendary Elsie de Wolfe. Cant you imagine her saying, “Henwy those Toikish toibles with toibins are a must!”


Fergus' Graduation From Puppy Class


Today was the big day! Fergus completed his six week class with flying colors.
There was only one other dog in the class and he was a hot mess but regardless, our teacher Shannel was always impressed with Fergus' quick learning.
Not like his daddy who had a tutor half his life and a bowl full of Ritalin.

No he knows how to:
Sit
Stay
Down
Leave it
Drop it

Daddy knows how to:
Not act like a sissy teen queen when he sees Fergus upon entering the house- that makes your dog go wild and he wizzles all over the place and spins out. Just say- Hey Fergus and keep walking.

To give calm commands, again not to excite and have him half poop scoot down the street for a treat from me.

Spray him with water if he barks.

Always keep the leash in the right hand and have him walk on the left

Use weird loud noise to get his attention in case of emergency.
This was especially embarrassing to try in the middle of Pet Smart...

I think we are going to sign up for intermediate classes next. He had such fun!

And it also wears his ass out so daddy can work for a couple of hours.